Kris van Assche presented sportswear with an urban edge. Swirling
jacquards and prints on knitwear and tailoring, were offset with abstract
camouflage patterns and oversized proportions. Green and grey were two key
colours, and strong outerwear styles came in bomber jackets and
fur-collared parkas.
Comme des Garcons Homme Plus saw its designer Rei Kawakubo collaborate
with tattoo artist Joseph Ari Aloi featuring a scrambled pattern of mostly
illegible words, as seen on leggings and all over a fitted suit. If you
looked closely you could see “Born to Die” within the print. Else where
Kawakubo presented her usual challenging of silhouettes, such as asymmetric
and jagged cut double breasted blazers, all part of a show that presented
the ritual and ceremony of having a tattoo inked into your skin.
On a set that was curated as an antique shop and featured a red glitter
catwalk, Givenchy‘s collection was full of curiosities. Models were
bejewelled with shells, rhinestones, metal discs and pearls, stuck directly
on to the skin by makeup artist Pat McGrath. Inspiration was as eclectic as
a shop: urban, couture, skulls, romanticism, mixing different cultures, and
different eras designer Ricardo Ticci stated. In the clothes this reflected
in stark tailoring featuring red contrast piping, or a Mexican carpet print
on slick suiting and separates.
There was a hint of Don Corleone in the opening look of Cerruti‘s AW15
presentation, with the model wearing a belted grey overcoat and black felt
hat, but designer Aldo Maria Camillo referenced his muse not as mafia but
artist Joseph Beuys. The clothes were luxurious and commercial, with mostly
wardrobe staples containing sharp coats and precisely-cut suits. Stand out
pieces included a bonded Prince of Wales hemmed with leather,
shooting-patch jackets with more trim at the pockets and cuffs, or a
carpenter’s coat in suede and ridged drill cotton.
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