Marni was the guest designer at this season’s Pitti Uomo and showed its
AW15 collection at the Museo Marino Marini in Florence. The Pitti guest
show is one of the highlights of fashion week, especially considering the
rush between shows in Milan, this is one presentation where press and
buyers can linger without fighting the calendar.
Marni has always been a go-to brand for quirky knitwear and printed shirts.
This season the abstract equestrian sculptures of the venue set the mood
for the house’s signature bold colours and textiles.
Creative Director Consuelo Castiglioni showed a seventies-inspired easy
elegance with zip-up tunics layered on wallpaper print shirts and
ski-inspired trousers that ended with a flared silhouette. Bell-bottoms
might look out of place on the streets of London, but here they felt
enticing, even possible. The first look was a chocolate fur tunic worn over
a printed shirt. These were not hints as so much a transportation back to
the 70s.
Elsewhere knitwear was roomy and tactile and mixed with tailoring and
jackets which featured broken lines and single vents. Collarless coats
looked like relaxed cardigans and robes and double-breasted blazers had a
welcoming roominess, giving a nonchalant yet sophisticated flair to the
collection.